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The Fragility of Life

Sometimes, what can go wrong, will go wrong.

Some of Us Survive for no known reason. I’ve had that happen to me twenty times in my life. When I tell people that, they think that simply can’t be. I don’t understand why either. It seems to make no sense.

I’m now 72 years old, soon to be 73. I’ve broken almost every bone in my body, except my femurs and my pelvis, including two skull fractures, a broken neck and back. By itself it’s not really a big deal, many have seen worse. But what is strange, is that the nature of the accidents were often in situations where life or death depended simply on luck.

I was a well trained emergency services worker specializing in rescues either in vertical environments, swift-water environments, dive rescue emergencies and structural collapses. So, yes I was well trained to recognize rapidly deteriorating situations where life or death depends on a simple choice, to stop, recognize the risk and escape or push on with whatever you were supposed to be doing. However, many of the situations I encountered, also involved other people, in endeavours where due to the nature of the event, safety should have ensured, all was well.

But, sometimes, it wasn’t.

We make assumptions, and in so doing we give up control to a situation, a party, organization, or activity where unless you are prepared to ‘assume’ responsibility for someone else’s actions or inaction, by acting yourself, that person will either perish or in turn put others at risk in their being rescued.

I never thought about it as brave. It was my job. One I loved doing, and one that I would gladly do over.

But some events some incidences leave one questioning the intelligence, or the ignorance of people, who will, without any reason for their certitude about how an event will unfold, take risks that to the trained, knowledgeable or educated in the action they are partaking in, would seem irrational.

Knowledge is truly power. But so is rationality and intelligence.

Out of thousands of incidents that I responded to in my career(s), a couple stand out for the horror they induced in others, and the outcome of those events.

The following event is not meant to titillate or entertain. It is simply an example of what can, and will go wrong, if people refuse to consider the law of unintended consequences or what can go wrong, will go wrong.

For those who are easily upset or empathic and may be affected, I recommend that you don’t read my reiteration of the following event.


This incident happened to me about 30 years ago when I was on vacation in the Caribbean on a dive holiday. It started out innocuously enough. I was a dive rescue instructor in the fire service and a former naval ship’s diver. I then lived in a very cold city in Canada, famous for its extreme temperatures, and so, having the opportunity and funds to get away for a diving holiday, booked a series of advanced dives at depth with a very well known dive company in the Caribbean, at a site that was famous for its visual effects and the amazing sea life found there. The company’s personnel were all PADI or NAUI instructors, and I knew I was a competent diver who was used to diving in challenging situations where large marine life could arrive, without warning.

As a diver who primarily dove in rivers, often in turbid conditions with low visibility, and sometimes under moving ice, which I wholly do not recommend, diving in pristine conditions where visibility was well over 100′ seemed like a timely, incredibly relaxing and beautiful holiday.

That is, until it wasn’t.

I had been in country for a few days, and seeing as I had travelled without my wife, who has no interest in diving or in any adrenaline inducing hobbies, was key to get on with the dives that I had planned for the next two weeks.

It was the first dive of what was to be many, when I arrived at the jetty and boarded the former US Navy cutter that had been turned into a dive boat.

On the day of the dive there had been a major storm the previous day and the swells at sea were large. As we boarded the launch, which looked to be a former coast guard cutter, approximately 70 feet in length, I paid attention to the other divers in order to hopefully be paired with one who was also comfortable in the environment and didn’t seem to be overtly nervous or so excited as to be a liability. Unfortunately, except for several couples who obviously were diving together, there seemed to be mostly those who were either new to diving, or appeared particularly nervous as we navigated out of the harbour and soon hit open ocean swells that were quite high, I’d guess 8-9 foot swells.

As we hit the open ocean and the continental shelf fell away, I had this sixth sense that the ocean would be a challenge for some of those aboard, but the thought quickly passed as I took in the deep blue and turquoise sea, on what was simply a beautiful day.

We were travelling a significant distance to get to our location, and after about an hour of plowing through the swells, it was obvious that quite a few people aboard were seasick. I wasn’t seasick, fortunately, but hoped that the constant pitching, rolling and yawing of the cutter would at least slow down, as we were hitting the waves obliquely, yet we continued, probably doing 20 knots as we made our way to a rather famous wall dive off one of the more famous diving islands, where supposedly the movie, the Abyss had been filmed.

After several hours there was the aroma of stomach contents down below, so I stayed topside amidship so as to lessen the effects of the ships movements. At some point, several hours into the day’s travel, the dive master came through the seating area where I was seated with a clipboard with each person’s name on it. He was about to hand me a coloured ribbon, and then asked;

“I noticed that you’re a well qualified diver from the application forms for this dive. Do you think you might be able to help me out by taking a new open-water diver as your dive partner? I’m short staffed, and could use the help.”

I didn’t really want to have anything to do with supervising a ‘newby’ diver, especially when it was obvious that today’s dive was going to be a major challenge for even seasoned divers, but instead of simply saying no, I agreed.

The dive-masters pleas had simply overrode my better judgement and stupidly, I had begrudgingly agreed.

When we finally did arrive at the dive site, there was no land in sight, from horizon to horizon. It was just after noon and the sky was cloudless, temperature about 30 degrees Celsius. The seas seemed actually rougher, which meant that side-entry off the cutter, which was normally about 6-7 feet above the ocean would require some careful timing.

I was about to put on my equipment, when a young man, maybe in his early twenties came up to me. He also had the same colour of ribbon attached to his buoyancy compensator as I. He introduced himself, and it was immediately obvious that he was really nervous.

I introduced myself and commented on his equipment, which appeared to be brand new. He stated that it wasn’t all that new and that he was from Michigan and had received his PADI Open Water Certification, although there were no stickers attached to his BC or buoyancy compensator, which is where most guys would place them, if they weren’t using their own tanks.

Air regulations disallow the shipping of dive cylinders, unless the tank valve has been removed from the cylinder, something most people will not go to the trouble or expense to do.

I helped him place his BC on the aluminum 80 cubic foot cylinder that was provided and to mount his regulator on his tank. He didn’t have an octopus, or another second stage regulator attached, but that wasn’t all that common 30 years ago. We checked his tank and his gauges for air pressure, and the regulators for flow. I reviewed hand signals with him, which surprisingly he didn’t know all of, and I explained to him that I had a curved Eustachian tube connected to my ear, and that because of that fact, my equalizing of pressure would take me a few seconds longer than normal, as this was an early dive on my dive holiday. Later dives would have forced enough pressure into my Eustachian tubes to have opened and cleared them, making it easier to equalize pressure on subsequent dives.

The dive master then came and stood in the middle of the seated assembly of what I guessed to be eight pairs of divers along with four dive masters who would stay between two pairs of divers on the dive, in case anyone should encounter any issues.

He explained the dive plan, maximum depth, bottom time, ascent time and everyone either wrote it down on a their dive slates with a grease pencil or for those with all the latest toys, entered the information into their dive computers, (a very recent invention at that time) which back then were large and by today’s standards rudimentary.

We were to dive on what was known as a bounce dive, on air, not any rarified gases (which 30 years ago were not available), which meant diving to a depth of 140 feet for a fairly short designated dive profile, spending only 5 minutes at that depth and ascending up to 110 feet for another short spell and ascending to the surface.

We reviewed nitrogen narcosis, its effects and the point where one should use discretion rather than valour, if the effects became overriding.

The rule for divers is simple. We plan our dives, and we dive our plan.

We all agreed as to the dive profile, and times, noting that because of the swell conditions, that it would be imperative to never hold our breath due to the swell action and the remote possibility of embolism or over-pressurization of our lungs.

We were diving at a very unique location, on what was known as a big wall dive. The cutter would be anchored on the continental side of the wall where the bottom depth was approximately 110 feet. Then over the edge of the wall, the ‘abyss’ as it is actually named, goes straight down 6,800 feet vertically into what is called the ‘tongue of the deep’.

The dive can be unnerving, as the effects of narcosis, the psychological factors of diving at depth and narcosis induced tunnel-vision, dizziness, and even paranoia in very rare cases, can occur. Generally, experienced divers will feel like they’ve had a few drinks, hence the name also know as the ‘martini effect. Dive Rescue Instructors learn to experience these events in order to manage their physiological reactions. These effects can be worsened by fatigue, alcohol consumption or those who may suffer from the slightest amount of claustrophobia. For very few, but some, deep dives can induce anxiety that becomes overwhelming. People who have never experienced this, should obviously avoid diving anywhere near a depth where they begin to feel this effects.

And all of this, becomes evermore important if one is to likely encounter either large or aggressive sharks.


The cutter finally arrived. Everyone was eager to get into the water, due to seasickness, and we had even lost one couple who were so sick they ended up not diving and spending the trip visiting the ‘head’ for hours on end.

The Captain dropped the cutters anchors and backed off from the shelf a short distance to make sure the anchors were ‘set’. The dive master had deployed a trailing float which was just above the wall and he asked me if I would go check to ensure the anchor had been ‘brought up’ and that the cutter was effectively grounded and no longer ‘making way’, or dragging the anchor on the sea floor, for obvious reasons.

Visibility was so good that I had only descended about 30 feet when I was able to see the anchor squarely dug into the sea floor down below. I surfaced and was in the water below where my dive buddy was to roll off and join me. The cutter would rise on the swell and then descend into the trough, which was then at the point where a diver would simply fall backwards off the rail of the cutter after a short fall of four feet from the gunnel and would enter the ocean, ensuring he had secured his mask and had his regulator in his mouth with his tank’s air supply valve turned on.

I looked up at my ‘buddy’ and realized, as the cutter was rising on the swell that he had his snorkel in his mouth, did not have his mask firmly attached and holding onto it with his hand, and was to my surprise carrying a large camera housing with a flash attached. I was about to yell at him, when instead of rolling off at the bottom of the cutter’s drop into the wave’s trough he rolled off while the boat/ship was at the crest of the wave, where the drop to the ocean was now closer to 12-14 feet.

He hit with such force that his mask flew off and his snorkel tore out of mouth. He wasn’t holding the actuator for his buoyancy compensator and was now ten feet under water with no mask, searching for the actuator to his BC. I quickly swam down, depressed his actuator and in a couple of seconds he was on the surface gagging from having tried to inhale under water.

One of the dive masters swam over, gave me a questioning look, and we made sure he was okay while another diver retrieved his mask and snorkel that was rapidly sinking.

My first thought was, “Why the hell did I agree to babysit this guy?”

He obviously had not idea what he was doing or had never dove either in rough seas or in what was very open water.

As the remaining divers assembled in the water we all made our way over to the float, and with a descend signal from the dive masters, flooded our BC’s and began the descent towards the ocean floor next to the wall.

As I began to descend, I took additional time to ensure that the pressure in my Eustachian tube was equalizing properly.

I turned around to find my dive partner, and he was nowhere to be seen. I looked down and saw him near the ocean floor, now probably 50 feet below me. I took out my knife from my leg scabbard and banged on the tank telling him to stay put at that depth. He gave me a thumbs up and I continued my descent.

He had found a large parrot fish that was brilliantly coloured and now began chasing it with his camera, not paying any attention either to me or his depth gauge.

The shelf tilted away to the wall and the other divers had congregated farther away from us and were following the dive masters and the larger group.

I banged on my tank again signalling to the dive master who was assigned to my pairing and pointed to my buddy who was continuing to descend, now on the edge of the wall’s abyssal drop.

He swam down and I joined him at the edge of the wall’s abyssal drop, and noted we were already at 130 feet in depth. The diver was banging on his tank, as was I for the diver to return, signalling him to come back.

We realized that he was already suffering the effects of narcosis, and at 130 feet of depth, the light began to fall off rapidly, leaving only hues of blue below, and then sheer blackness below that.

By now two other dive masters had abandoned their groups and were beside us, their eyes wide-open at the horror of watching this diver continue his descent, which we were sure was well beyond the depth of our intended bounce dive. One of the dive masters had ascended with the remaining divers, and had dropped a shot line with a pair of twin tanks attached to where we now remained, carefully watching as our bottom safety time lapsed.

The diver who was now in trouble, finally realizing he was in danger had begun to ascend, but was doing so much faster than he should have been. Obviously he had added some inflation to his BC and was ascending so fast that two of us grabbed him on his ascent and deflated his BC. As I looked at him, his face was contorted in pain and there was blood coming from his regulator.

We ascended with him, forcing his regulator into his mouth, as we ascended. One of the topside divers ‘designated’ as a safety diver had entered the water and took the diver from us as we took the time to off-gas nitrogen where the decompression tanks had been lowered for us to use, although the planned ‘bounce dive’ was not meant for this to take place.

We stayed for the allotted time required by the chart to off gas, and then ascended to the dive platform.

The magnitude of the disaster was such that the captain had immediately sent an SOS to the Bahamian Coastguard and any other ships in the vicinity that might have either a helicopter and SARTEC or search and rescue technician aboard to immediately arrive and transfer the diver to emergency care.

As I climbed on the swim platform, which was a task in itself in what were seas too large for safe or comfortable exiting while wearing gear, I pulled by tank and back mounted BC over my head and passed it up, removed my flippers and climbed out, trying not to be swept off the platform by the waves.

When I got to the main cabin area it was immediately obvious that the diver was both unconscious and in great danger of not surviving. A large emergency medical kit was open and oxygen was being applied through a ventilator and bag, while one member of the crew was doing CPR.

There was a fair bit of blood, and what I realized was pinkish lung tissue visible.

Being hours away from assistance, the SOS was answered and to our great surprise a US Navy Dive Tender was within reach of our boat by helicopter.

After what seemed an interminable time, a US Coast Guard Dolphin helicopter arrived, hovered above the boat and a SARTEC/Swimmer descended with a basket. We strapped him in and the Rescue Technician asked what time the diver ascended. We have written the time and his vitals on this forehead with a grease pencil.

I asked the Tech what he thought the diver’s likeliness of survival looked like, he looked at me shook his head, said, “not good”, tapped me on the shoulder and he and the basket with the diver in it, were winched up and in seconds, they were gone.

Except for a woman who was quietly weeping, there was total silence on the boat.

We made our way back to port. The local police were waiting at the dock. I filled out my explanation as to exactly what had occurred on paper, and the police took possession of the documents. I told them where I was staying on the island and was told that if they needed further information, that they would contact me.

I completed by dives over the next two weeks, mentally totally preoccupied by the events of the week prior.

I flew home to Canada, never finding out who the diver was, or whether he survived.

I even contacted the Canadian High Commission after returning home and provided them once again with my information.

To this day, I’ve heard nothing more.


The lesson’s are many.

For me, it proved that even with good preparation, training and experience in emergency operations, that things can, will and sometimes do go terribly wrong.

I also never dove again with a diver who was not provided by the dive company and certified as a dive instructor.

My career in diving ended in 2001 at the age of 48, when I suffered a life threatening dive injury during recertification for my Dive Rescue Instructor from DRI in Fort Collins, Colorado. The cause of the accident was that I ruptured my sinuses, and suffered a ruptured ear drum and an embolism, which should have killed me. Somehow, instead of the air bubble lodging in my brain, it entered the blood supply to my maxillofaciary nerve, which was one of the most painful injuries I have ever had to endure.

It should never have occurred, but our bodies are simply imperfect, with weaknesses that we will never be aware of, until we are.

Be well, be safe and be cognizant of the risks for whatever you do that is not the norm.

Enjoy, I still do, and have branched into new wilderness activities, including adventure motorcycling.

Life is still, a joy.

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My Favourite Poem

youtube.com/watch

This is truly one of my favourite poems.

For me, it provides a framework of sorts for how I see the world and my part in it.

It isn’t how we die that matters, so much as how we lived.

But the question can be of both, and the means the measure of our existence.

I have always loved to challenge life.

And that ‘testing’, has left me with some clarity as to the importance of challenge.

To not challenge is to simply exist. And to each of us, challenge may well represent something completely different.

I am well into my twentieth test of my Survivability.

Suffice to say that the learning process has been long, and often arduous.

I carry some of those scars, externally, and some internally.

But the reality is that even with all of the physical constraints that my irrational response to the living of life have held for me, I’d probably do them all again.

So, no matter your challenge, be it the climbing of mountains, diving to the depths of oceans or facing your own mortality, –do it with passion, with gusto and with the full realization that you are most alive while doing so.

We are here for such a short time, no do-over, no passage to something else.

No.

This is it.

So when that day does come and you know it has arrived, raise your fist and remain as willful and inviolate as you were throughout your short spin around the solar system, however many times that might have been.

And say to yourself, and to those you love…

It was a hell of a ride, and I rode it right to the end…

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Rides to Remember

Characters Fill Motorcycle Seats

This June I’ll be riding down to the National Moto Guzzi Rally in John Day, Oregon. Although I’ve been to Oregon, I haven’t had the chance to discover the beauty of the state in enough detail to truly say I’ve been there. To have a feel for a place you need to spend time in the places, with the people that make that spot unique and interesting. And as much as a place can be beautiful and magical, it’s the people that bore into your cranium and your heart.

I’ll be going down to write an article about the event and a man within the Moto Guzzi community whose knowledge, interest, and expertise make him a legend amongst Guzzi aficionados, particularly in the North East of the United States. However that article will be forthcoming later this year, and I’ll leave its story for a later date.

But I digress. I wanted to talk about the characters of motorcycling. The people and places that are inherently unique and those who leave indelible memories about motorcycling, where you were, or what you were doing. I enjoy seeking out the characters of our two-wheeled world. Often they don’t fall into the mainstream, and they certainly don’t spend their time seeking validation for who they are, or what they believe in. The most interesting ones, avoid groups and chaos. They seem to thrive on isolation, and separation from the horde of other riders found in some places.

You’ll often find them sitting on their bike, on a boardwalk, or in an old, worn, comfortable leather chair out front of a unique establishment that mirrors its patrons. People and places of character. Such has been my experience. And while they may look gruff, and of course, some are, both gruff and often tough personalities, I tend to be drawn to talk to them, to listen and to hopefully learn a little about their story, for it’s the stories that stay with you, and matter.

Often these people are loners. They are comfortable being alone, and not necessarily lonely. They are usually introverts and don’t seek affinity, yet by their very nature are sought out by those people who also have similar traits and characteristics. It seems illogical, yet many members of motorcycle clubs, both mainstream and not, align themselves with those of similar interest, yet in every other facet of their lives, remain alone.

They are also not ‘joiners’. They aren’t the people who you’ll meet on TikTok or Meta. They instead seek out individuals of similar character and life experience. They often wear the signs of their difficult pasts. Some wear the physical marks of life, some the emotional scars. Sometimes intellectuals, seemingly wary of groups and crowds, have experienced too much pain, and loss or seen too much inhumanity.

What brings them together, what breaks down their wall is a common denominator, a love of riding, and in all of this is the machine itself, and their archetypal motorcycle. Adventurous nature lovers and risk-takers are inherently attracted to Adventure Motorcycles. In the mountains of the western Rockies where the following story took place, you often find them in small groups. They are usually younger than most leather-faced cruiser or touring bike riders, and have backgrounds in motocross and offroad riding. They are usually proficient riders as well, as riding in rough terrain requires one to develop skills to both enjoy and remain physically in one piece.

But the group, with the most characters I find, are those who tour and cruise. Like sailors on the land, they are most at home when they are the lords of the landscape, rolling across long expanses of prairie, desert, forest, or mountains, away from the madding crowd. They come together like smelts on a run at events called rallies to share experiences of the open road, to compare their mechanical marvels, and to consume quantities of alcoholic and other beverages around fires, on beaches, at camps, and in forest enclaves at specific locations and times suitable to the majority.

Often, it takes time to get some to talk. Experience has taught them to be wary of strangers, especially those who ask too many questions, such as me. I too have parts of me I’m not comfortable talking about. Only once I have a measure of a person will I do so. Life teaches painful and sometimes humiliating lessons. But those who have experienced those same moments of fear and angst, and possess the scars, are often the most thoughtful, genuine, and interesting of humans.

Some are rich, some are entrepreneurs, and some are poor. Postmen, doctors, and police officers would be felons (politicians), housewives, and brigands of unknown origin or means. Motorcycling encompasses all kinds. It asks no questions, seeks no answers, and provides no guarantees. Life, is represented here in all its forms.

These life forms often wear the symbols of membership in an organization by displaying a particular club’s logo or crests. Often they bear the name of the location, state, or province from which they came. Some, wear nothing but leathers, half-helmets, or no helmets, displaying tattoos of their first love and its manufacture. Some display names of their ‘better halves’, and some, tributes to friends or faithful companions.

They come from all walks of life, and their choice of ride reflects their physical abilities, fitness, or physical limitations. They chrome their rides, add new exhaust systems, and paint schemes, and air brush their steeds into symbols of beauty, whose tires shall never touch mud or gravel. Some have done nothing but.

It was while on my way to an International Firefighter Motorcycle Group Annual Rally in the Okanogan of British Columbia by way of Wyoming from Winnipeg, (known as the indirect route), that I met the first character in question. I was on top of Beartooth Mountain in Montana having just driven up the many switchbacks of Beartooth Pass on the very first day that the road had been opened to vehicles. Snow was still steeply cut, in most places, 10 to 12 feet straight up above the road on both sides, and torrents of water ran down the asphalt surface on its way to the valley below. It was like riding through a gauntlet of white walls surrounded by beautiful snow-peaked mountains where huge cornices of snow overhung the serpentine twists and turns of the roadway itself. It was, and is an experience that every motorcyclist should have the good fortune to ride, at least once.

When I left Red Lodge, Montana that morning, the temperature was somewhere around 65 Fahrenheit in the valley. I’d timed my ride to reach the warmest temperature at the peak upon arrival. As I ascended Beartooth Mountain the temperature dropped continuously. After thirty or forty minutes I reached the parking lot below the peak at the overlook with its amazing vistas and trails that surround the peak. When I arrived I checked the air temp on the LED screen of my 2012 BMW F800st. I was now 3 degrees celsius.

I had just gotten off my bike and was in the process of pulling out my cold-weather riding jacket when a sport-touring Ducati motorcycle pulled up beside me. The rider was wearing a full-face helmet. He just nodded at me through his smoked visor and began to seek out warmer clothing, just as I was doing. There was a Park Ranger in a truck parked close to us and as I was pulling out items from my drybag, he turned and called out to me from his cab.

“Are you planning to stay up here for any length of time?” he asked. I answered, “I want to take some photos from the overlook and stretch my legs a bit, Is there an issue?” I asked.

“No, but you had best watch the weather. There’s a big storm coming from the west and we’re likely to get at least a foot or two of snow up here”, he said. While cold, I hadn’t thought about the possibility of snow that morning. The sky was an almost iridescent blue, filled with big, puffy cumulous clouds.

He continued, “Based on the radar, you have about an hour and that grey squall line to the west is going to get here. The last guys who thought it wasn’t a big deal got stranded in that washroom over there for three days before we got to them.” I looked at the tiny stone building he had pointed to and tried to imagine spending three days in its odiferous and surely foul interior.

“Thanks, I’ll be out of here in short order.” He just gave me a thumbs up and began to walk over to the other visitors on the near summit to make them aware.

It was then that I turned to look at the man who had arrived on the Ducati, next to me. He’d removed his helmet and was changing his jacket. Facially, he was old, really old, yet physically he looked like an athlete. One made of wire or sprung steel. His facial features were chiseled into his cheeks and forehead, and atop this visage was a mass of white hair, almost quill-like in its look.

“How was the ride?” he asked.

“Great, I responded, but I understand we probably only have an hour to get off this peak before that storm gets here”, I said pointing to the grey line on the western horizon.” He didn’t look off into the distance, just nodded.

“It comes in fast here. I live down in Red Lodge. Often you can see the snow falling heavy up here. Not a good place to stay on a bike for too long early in the season.” he said, sitting back on his bike.

“I envy you”, I said. It must be something living in the mountains when storms arrive.” Again, he just nodded.

“Well, I wasn’t always here. The Marine Corps was my life, but after my wife died I just wanted to be somewhere else, somewhere without all the baggage, people, and memories of the past. I love this place. It suits me. You know, I’ve probably been to fifty countries, but this place is where I want to stay.”

I said, “Well, you picked one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been. The people are friendly, the scenery is incredible and the weather, unpredictable.”

He just laughed.

“So you’re from Canada, eh?” he said, pointing to my license plate. He emphasized the ‘eh’. I’ve been there a few times. It’s beautiful there as well.”

“It is. I felt the need to keep him talking, in. spite of the impending weather’s arrival. “So when did you leave the military?” I asked.

His answer, shocked me.

“Wow”, was all I could manage.

“I retired in 1977”, he said proudly.

I assumed he had made a mistake, there was no way this man could be…

“So might I ask, how old you are?”

“Ninety-Six”, he said proudly.

“And you ride a Ducati Multistrada!” I said trying not to sound too much like a twelve-year-old.

“Yup. There are lots of trails and more mountains to see than I have years left, so I take a small tent, a bedroll, and a camera, and just go,” he said with a smile. “I never bore of the mountains, the sky, the clouds, the wind, and the wildlife. It keeps me alive,” he said smiling a broad toothy and surprisingly white smile.

I wanted to continue the conversation as I imagined this man had many stories to tell, but he swung a leg over the Ducati and fired it up.

“Well”, he said, pointing to the now visible squall line. We’d best get down before that gets here,” he said. “I don’t like riding on ice and snow on the mountain. It can be hard to see the edge.”

I turned and realized that the squall line was coming towards us, fast. It was obvious that it was snowing, not all that far away, either.

I’m not sure if I even answered before I pulled on my helmet and gloves and climbed back on the bike. I followed him out of the parking lot, and we began to head down. No sooner had we reached the first serpentine turn that it started to snow. I suppose we were still at 10,000 feet and had several sharp hairpin turns to navigate before we’d hit a straight road and some warmer air.

I was riding stressed. My tires were not designed for ice and snow, especially with an extra eighty pounds of gear on the bike.

Fortunately, snow accumulations were melting as we headed down. Red Lodge is at an altitude of 5500 feet, so even on sunny days, it’s never really hot in the town.

As we got to the town, the old marine pointed to a sign ahead and pulled his motorcycle into a parking spot in front of a coffee shop. I pulled in behind him and decided to enter, as the snow had now turned to rain.

Thanks to Charles Kuralt for his quote and to the unnamed photographer who took the article’s cover image.

End of Part 1, “Rides to Remember”.

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OCD Goes For a Ride…

Or, Did I Check That?

I don’t know about you, but before I leave on a trip I find myself taking my bike for a diagnostic ride and listening to its every murmur in an attempt to divine what may be slightly odd, wrong, or unusual. I find I can’t help it, as it becomes an innate part of my ride. The problem is that it isn’t just once, but every time I get on the bike. And while this isn’t completely unusual, because none of us want to be stranded, this state of heightened awareness increases the closer I get to leaving.

And although this is the product of being the son of a mechanic, I must admit I find it annoys even me. I should just be able to throw my leg over the bike, relax and try to hide the cheshire cat smile that runs the width of my visor, but no, I immediately fall into diagnostic mode, even though on my new bike, it’s highly unlikely to have an issue at this point.

I should explain that I don’t have OCD, except for putting on all my motorcycle gear and wearing it often in the winter, to ‘wear in the new stuff’. My other half thinks I’m a bit obsessed. I think this is just paying close attention to the condition of my gear. Fortunately she didn’t mind when I wore my new motorcycle pants around the apartment for a day to “wear in the armour pockets.” In any event, she’s now conditioned like a good pair of leather riding gloves, and twice as subtle.

I’m an apartment/condo dweller, which exacerbates my issues. I’m not allowed to actually do any servicing of any kind or else the fellow gestapo members of my enclave will report me to the condo police, whereupon I will receive a terse warning that “no servicing of vehicles, of any kind, is allowed on the property.” Needless to say, I usually drive over to a parking lot of a big box store to have a close look at my chain or any other component of my bike that requires me to get down on a knee, heaven forbid, and look.

It doesn’t make any difference whether my bike has only 12,000 kilometers on it, and I have a full five-year warranty on the motorcycle (purchased specifically so that I wouldn’t suffer the angst I’m still undergoing). I still find myself doing this routine, every time I hit the highway. I suppose it comes from my youth, when riding a sketchy motorcycle with more miles on it than a ten year old cab, was always ready to die in the middle of nowhere at the peak of a deluge, usually with an electric issue that would immediately disappear the minute you actually arrived at a dealer or began to pull the bike apart in the garage.

My new motorcycle, a Kawasaki Ninja 1000sx is a truly marvelous piece of machinery and one I’m very happy with to date. My problem is that until I have the same affinity and knowledge of every sound, vibration or squeak from this bike, that I had with my previous two BMW’s, I’m like a pilot getting into a plane where the mechanic says in passing, “Don’t worry about that little hydraulic issue, we’ll sort it out the next time it shows up.” What? No, I don’t think so.

In any event, I’m about to depart on another 9,000 kilometre adventure shortly, which I’m sure will lead me to check and recheck the bike and my gear, and my cameras, and my ipad, chargers, cables at least, who knows how many times.

But I’ll be fine. This is all normal, right?

Ciao…

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CFMoto Ibex 800T

Impressive Features, Excellent Warranty

Today I got the opportunity to look over the CFMoto Ibex 800T, and I must say, I was pleasantly surprised. It’s obvious that CFMoto’s partnership with KTM has paid big dividends, and its competitors, such as the Kawasaki Versys 650 ($14,000 without a number of accessories found on the CFMoto and a two-year warranty), Yamaha Tenere 700 ($21,544 with fewer options and a year less warranty), BMW F800 GS ($22,328) and the Triumph Tiger 900 ($22,019.11 similarly equipped) should all be concerned.

CFMoto Ibex 800T – $14,299 w/5 year warranty. Yes, I said $14,299 CDN.

The 800T has a 799cc liquid-cooled parallel twin borrowed from KTM. The engine delivers 94 HP and 57 ft-lbs of torque, with a four-valve DOHC setup and throttle-by-wire technology. The Ibex features J.Juan brake components, both front and rear, with a front 320-mm disc with four-piston calipers, while the rear has a 260-mm two-piston caliper.

The bike is feature-rich with cruise control, 2 rider modes, a seven-inch beautiful TFT display, dual-channel ABS, coupled with rain modes. The bike has a power-assisted slipper clutch and a bidirectional quick shifter.

A great feature is the low seat height of 32 inches, incredibly accessible for most riders. The bike has a huge fuel tank at 19.2 liters, and the tech that comes with the 800 ibex standard is quite impressive. Bluetooth connectivity is standard as are heated seats, grips (3 levels), LED headlamps, including four-way blinkers, fog lamps a 12V DC, and USB connection.

The motorcycle has good ground clearance, a 19-inch front wheel, and 17-inch rear (both tubeless and spoked) with fully adjustable KYB suspension. According to topspeed.com, the bike “eats up the trails like on one’s business.” The cornering ABS is also excellent in the twisties.

The price in contrast to its competition in Canada is excellent at $6,000 to $7,000 less than the competition, with a better warranty.

According to topspeed.com, “The CFMotos is built like a tank. The sturdy yet flexible tubular steel frame uses the engine as the stressed point, lowering its center of gravity” providing great handling. “The entire motorcycle has a premium feel to it.”

“The bike is loaded with premium features, from gold-anodized upside-down forks, super-bright LED consoles, and J Juan dual-disc brakes to Maxxis MaxxVenture MA1 tires.

I was very impressed with the motorcycle and will take one for a test ride as soon as CFMoto’s new dealer can keep one in stock. All of the Ibex motorcycles in stock were sold and could not be ridden.

If you are looking for a premium motorcycle at a price that competitors can only dream about providing, you owe it to yourself to take a look at the CFMoto 800 ibex.

The new CFMoto dealer in Steinbach, Manitoba, had stock on the whole range of motorcycles, although all the currently available 450 ibex and 800 ibex T’s were sold in less than a week.

Ciao…

Featured

2024 BMW F900 Review

Redesigned for 2024, the F900 is in the hottest segment of motorcycling. Mid-weight adventure bikes are hardly new to BMW, having been in their lineup since 2009. And not surprisingly, according to Rider Magazine, the F900 is the finest iteration of the mid-sized GS to date.

With a displacement of 895cc’s delivering 105 hp, the new GS has shaved an additional 31 lbs of mass, now scaling at 483 lbs with a full 3.8-gallon tank. The new bike has a lower profile than its F850 predecessor, and has full LED lighting and rear turn signals.

With a six-axis IMU and two riding modes, plus ABS Pro and Dynamic Traction Control, the bike utilizes a large 6.5-inch TFT display that has smartphone connectivity. Complete with hand guards, heated grips and self-canceling turn-signals, the 900’s suspension has been upgraded with fully adjustable 43mm Showa front forks with 9.1 of suspension travel on its 21 inch wheel. At the rear there is 8.5 inches of suspension travel. The seat height is rather high at 34. 2 inches, so a stretch for anyone under 5’10” with an inseam of 30 inches. There is, however a lower seat available down to 32.9 inches.

The Adventure version of the F 900 GS has a 6.1- gallon fuel tank, Dynamic ESA, a luggage rack and an aluminum bash plate for protection. Additionally, there is a Enduro Pro package, with a fully adjustable suspension, Ride Modes Pro, BMW’s M Endurance chain and taller handlebars for standing while riding.

According to Rider, torque is excellent and increases to 68.6 lb-ft of torque at 6,750 rpm providing 105 hp at 8,500 rpm.

2024 BMW F 900 GS Review | First Ride

The F 900 GS has smartphone connectivity and BMW’s unique multicontroller wheel on the left grip. A USB port and 12-volt socket complete the display area.

I’m looking forward to road testing the bike this spring, but according to Rider Magazine this is “the best yet” in relation to BMW’s mid-weight offerings. This bike is still produced in Germany, which for some is important, and comes with a 2 year unlimited mileage warranty. With a price of $14,995 CDN, the GS 900 might be exactly what you’re looking for.

Thanks to Rider Magazine for the photos and review.

Ciao…

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Why We Ride

I’ve written about this subject before, because for many of us the reasoning doesn’t really capture the experience. Riding long distances across country allowed me to ask myself some important questions. Not the least of which was why do I ride? I couldn’t give myself the transcendent answers, I’ve heard them all and tried to understand them, to no avail. Why exactly did I start riding late in life, when my physical abilities were likely not as good as when I was young?

To me, it seems that I was reaching a point in my life where I had experienced all the challenges I could rationally put in front of me, whether it related to risk, achievement or challenge and survival. I’d tried everything from climbing, diving, swift water rescue, mountain rescue, dive rescue, saturation diving, spelunking, even cave diving.

In that process I had been excited, challenged, terrified, even mystified by what I had experienced. But what led me back to motorcycling was something different. I had no idea what that was at the time. But what I found I was seeking was solace. Solace from some of my life’s horrific experiences caused by grief, death, loss, job pressures, marital failure and financial pressures created by all of that process.

Getting on a motorcycle and then getting on the road was a mechanism to get in touch with who I was. I needed to depend on me, just me. I needed to know who I was, now that my career was over. I didn’t realize that through all the trials and tribulations of my life, that in the pursuit and process I had lost touch of myself. I really didn’t know what I wanted, what I was going to do with myself as I headed hell-bent towards the last quarter of my life?

I was an avid writer and photographer, and I thought that would be enough, but even then the inspiration to write and photograph wasn’t enough to keep me involved in the larger world.

The answer came to me one day when I walked into a motorcycle dealership on a whim, and saw a Honda VFR 800, cherry red, sleek, beautiful and fast. I went home and thought I’d simply photograph motorcycles, maybe motorcycle racing. Surely that would provide enough stimulation to keep my interest. I watched GP racing and then TT racing. But it wasn’t until I returned to that shop a week later and again sat on that VFR that I realized this is what I want to do, in and with my remaining years.

My bike exactly. What a beauty.

I had absolutely no reservations in relation to risk. I’d lived through nearly 20 life threatening events in my life and the universe hadn’t had my number to date, or so I told myself. I bought that bike, and within a month I was on an 8,000 mile trip that taught me to appreciate that I wouldn’t know everything I wanted or needed to know in short order. I practiced low speed turns, emergency braking, adjusting to curves by trail braking and carefully carving apexes. Within the first year I felt that this is where I belonged. I was becoming comfortable.

And then my neighbour backed over my bike with his 1 ton ‘effing’ truck!

I was apoplectic. I wanted to strangle him and dump his lifeless corpse into a swamp. But sanity prevailed, thankfully, and I simply punched the crap out of a speed bag in the garage until my knuckles bled. I returned, looking like a man who had just cut off his own leg with a pocket knife, and called my insurance company.

Within a week, I had another bike. Not as beautiful as my VFR, admittedly, but one capable of taking me anywhere a road would go in North America. I came to slowly appreciate the sheer simplicity of the ride, of hours winding through mountain passes, the rain and wind trying to pull me off the road. I became comfortable with discomfort and learned the rhythm of the ride. I took solace in the beauty of the mountains, the ocean, the lakes and the forests. I found I could relax, just watching a stream or making a cup of coffee over a fire and sleeping under the stars.

I’m 70 now and suffered a really ugly leg fracture last year, but fortunately I’m back riding, or will be in short order. I have two major trips planned for this summer, each over 8,000 miles in length. I’m more relaxed and at peace with myself than I’ve ever been, and the future, while shorter, looks alive and well.

I hope each of you, in your way and in your own time, finds whatever the key is to accepting life as it is and in the enjoyment of one down and six up. Be well, be safe, be kind. Live the moment, and ride.

Ciao…

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I Want a Swiss Army Knife of a Bike!

These days, motorcycles seem to fall into distinctive categories. So much so, that when a person buys a bike, they seem to buy it for a ‘specific’ purpose. Interestingly, I’ve actually wondered if a smaller bike offers advantages that outweigh many of the obvious disadvantages, particularly if you want to travel off-road.

First, most adventure bikes are quite tall. The Honda CB500X has a seat height of 32.8 inches, which for an adventure machine is reasonable so that someone of my stature at 5’9 3/4” can ride the bike without much flapping about.

Off-road is an interesting term, because I don’t know many motorcyclists who can take their tourer off-road. While the Honda CB500x can handle off-road excursions where you want to run into the mountains or an out of the way gravel or mud road. The weight of the bike is only 437 pounds wet, and its range is exceptional. You can easily tweak between 70 and 80 miles per gallon, if you don’t push the engine too hard on the highway. Maintaining a speed of 70 mph will generally reward you with 75 mpg in range. With a 17.7 litre fuel tank, you can easily expect a range in excess of 250 miles.

While not the best in terms of off-road capability, it is truly capable of decent off-road performance. It’s flexible suspension setup with inverted Showa front forks and a rear mono-shock, while non-adjustable, isn’t bad. And the rubber on the CB500x is quite good, making use of Dunlop Trailmix Mixtour tires with a 19” front and 17” inch rear alloy wheel.

Of course, like everthing else in life, there are limitations. It’s top speed is 113 mph, its 0-60 mph is 5.2 seconds and it only puts out 47 hp and 31.7 foot pounds of torque. For many this may well be called a beginner-friendly motorcycle, but for older riders who want to get where they are going reliably, affordably, yet still be capable of taking routes that your larger sport tourer dare not attempt, and you have what might be called a Swiss Army Motorcycle Knife.

Nor is simplicity a bad thing when it comes to off-roading. And while it comes in a fairly spartan package, there is a huge range of touring accessories. So if you’re looking for capability in a cost-effective package you could do a lot worse than the Honda CB500X. The technology, while basic, including its LED instrumentation provides all the necessary information, along with its basic ABS braking, which cannot be turned off, however it isn’t all that invasive and does as its intended.

This spring of 2024, I’ll be taking one for road test. If anything stands out as less or greater than presented here, I’ll let you know.

Also, I’ll be taking the CFMoto 650 Adventura for a test drive as well. It’s a bike that shows lots of promise, not for the off-road but for touring, yet costs only $8,000 in Canada complete with panniers, and with a 5 Year Warranty. So much for not standing behind their product. However, I digress. So, if anyone owns or has insights into the Honda CB500X motorcycle that haven’t been mentioned here, please drop me a line and explain your thoughts.

And one last thought, and question. How many of you would consider riding a 500 CC adventure bike to get you everywhere you want to go, instead of most of the way you want to go on your Sport Tourer?

It’s a fair question as many of my fellow riders are at the point where a sub-200 kilogram bike is beginning to make sense.

As usual, please let me know what you think.

Ciao…

Do You Hear Something?

About 52 years ago I took an extensive road trip on a Triumph T100R that I had arranged a loan on, and for which I had provided that individual with my car in lieu of payment.

A buddy of mine, Dick, was a novice motorcyclist, and the two newbies that we were decided to take an extensive motorcycle road trip. Our trip had just begun as we were on the third day of a three week to one month adventure tour, mostly in the United States. We had predicated the length of the trip on the basis of our finances. Essentially we decided that when we got down to fuel and accomodation for the distance it would require for us to return home, we’d end our trip.

On that third morning we found ourselves in South Dakota very near the badlands. We never prearranged our accommodations, either motel or camping, as we wanted our experiences to be determined by what we found on the road. We rode into Rapid City, and realized immediately that there was something unusual going on. Everywhere we went, there was a horde of tourists. After failing to find accommodation at the third motel, we were told that securing accommodation in Rapid City was highly unlikely as there were two conventions in town for the week.

I looked at my buddy, and we both said, “Camping” at the same time. We got directions to the largest campground and headed off, sure we’d find a place to put up our tent. Upon arrival, there was a giant handmade sign at the gate which said, “FULL”. We asked the clerk at the campground where we might find a camping spot, and he simply pointed to the hills in the distance, which was obviously the badlands of South Dakota.

We looked at each other and nodded. It was already after dinner when we set off. Driving down the interstate we saw a road that led off into the badlands, took the left turn, and hoped for the best. The road was dodgy, with soft sand, which made handling the Triumph a handful. We had just crossed a dry creekbed when we found what we thought looked like an ideal site. It was flat and mostly sandy, with a few rocks that we thought we could easily move.

We parked the bikes, unpacked our camping gear, and then began clearing the site. It was rapidly getting dark, so without any other thought than we needed to have a bite to eat and sleep, we did just that.

We had quickly fallen to sleep, having ridden about ten hours the previous day. I woke up in the dark, aware of a strange sound. It was a burbling sound combined with what I would describe as a low rumble. It took me a few seconds to make sense of the sound. Suddenly, my mind awoke, combined with an impending sense of panic.

I grabbed Dick by the shoulders and shook him, ”Get Up”, was all I said. “I think we’re in trouble.” I grabbed the flashlight that I had put down next to my sleeping bag and shone it down the creek bed. Less than a hundred yards away, I could see water. Without thinking any further I ran to my bike, started it and drove it up the slope to the roadbed. I ran back and started pulling stakes from the tent, Dick wasn’t even out of the tent when I tried to pull it out of the creek before the water arrived.

I was yelling at Dick, “Get the hell out, or we’re going to lose the tent. Get your bike out of the creek!” It was at this point that Dick realized the seriousness of the situation as the water actually reached both the tent, and his bike. He started his bike and drove it up to where mine sat, then ran back and together we dragged the tent, which was beginning to actually float, out of the creek bed and up the slope. The water continued to rise, and after draining the water from the tent we took out the contents and attempted to begin drying everything out.

Within ten minutes the creek was three feet deep and flowing fast. We found a large rock where we could drape the tent over it, while we waited for the sun to rise. We made a cup of coffee with the Piezo stove we had packed, and watched as the water raced by. Within about an hour, to our amazement, the water began to recede and two hours later it was reduced to a trickle.

The incident taught me a lesson I will never forget. Never assume anything. Know what you’re likely to encounter, and be prepared if and when circumstances change abruptly. While we knew that camping in the badlands posed challenges, our assumptions as to what the real risks were, was wrong.

I knew we were likely to encounter snakes, and possibly scorpions, I had done almost no research. The snakes, small prairie rattlers were generally never an issue, and scorpions, though existent, not prone to tent invasion.

What was a substantive risk, was flash flooding. In our ignorance we had picked the worst possible location for our tent. Low wadis or dry stream beds are obviously, in retrospect, a thoroughly bad place to camp. Additionally, we had no idea what the weather conditions would be that night. We had rain gear, what’s there to worry about?

Apparently, a lot more than we had anticipated. Again, plan your trip, particularly when you are dealing with locations or areas where you know nothing about the environment you’re going to encounter.

Ciao…

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The Long Way Home

I’ve put together my TripTik for my first trip this summer. Two weeks should be about right as I plan to photograph, vlog, and blog along the way. It’s a good day’s ride each day of about 500 miles or 8 hours on the road. At about 9,000 km for the entire trip, it will take me through Manitoba, North Dakota, Montana, Wyoming, Utah, Nevada, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, British Columbian, Alberta, Saskatchewan and back to Winnipeg, Manitoba.

https://a.rever.co/embed/rides/9326959

Four years ago I made a similar trip, spending more time in British Columbia and Alberta’s mountains. I’ll be posting a blog each evening and adding some Vlogging along the way, where and when I have connectivity. The mountains are my main interest, along with the deserts. It’s in these places I’ll spend most of my time photographing.

Hopefully, unlike the last trip, the snakes will be few and far between. I got to see enough rattlesnakes, scorpions and Grizzlies then.

So, this is my first trip of the summer. I hope you’ll post yours and tell me the places and sites that make your trip special to you.

Ciao for now…